Back in January 2009, I made a trip to Tioman Island. Tioman is an island approximately 32km off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, situated somewhere in the South China Sea. Its rustic charm and appearance reminiscent of some South Pacific island with its twin peaks, lush greenery and splendid beaches made it a filming site for the 1958 movie 'South Pacific'. Not surprisingly, it made it to TIME Magazine's most beautiful islands list.
There are several ways to get to the island, but I decided to splurge a little and opted for the direct flight from Subang Airport which has a total travel time of 55 minutes. The flight is operated by Berjaya Air. Back then, the airline used the DHC-7-110 Dash 7 which is a neat little turboprop plane that seats about 50 passengers in a single class configuration. Be warned that turboprops are a little bumpier and noisier compared to jet engines so don't be alarmed if you get the 'butterflies-in-your-stomach' sensation.
The aircraft cruises at 15,000 feet so you can still make out features of the terrain and landmarks down below. Once we have crossed the west coast of the peninsular to the east, we start our gradual descent to the island. The further you get from the mainland, you will catch your first glimpse of the bright blue-green South China Sea variegated with patches of cloud cover. As the landing gear is extended downwards to prepare for landing, you can actually make out the tiny white dots of marine vessels out at sea.
As we prepare for final approach, we make a sharp bank to the right to align with the runway somewhat similar to the old Hong Kong Kai Tak approach. The pilot reduces speed and tilts the nose downwards a little further for steeper descent, then flares the nose upwards as we are about to touch down. The aircraft bounces a little as the tyres hit the runway and the roaring sound of reverse thrust is heard as the aircraft screeches to a halt at the end of the runway and taxis to the little airport full of happy holidaymakers awaiting their return flight.
While waiting for the ground crew to unload the baggage at the terminal, it is a wise idea to pay your marine park entrance fee. As Tioman is a designated marine park, the government charges a small sum of RM5 to cover maintenance and conservation costs. Once you exit the airport, you will be greeted by representatives of the hotels and resorts waiting to whisk you off to your accommodation of choice.
As I mentioned that I was on a 'splurge' mode, I opted to stay at Berjaya Tioman which is a 4-star resort owned by the Berjaya Group, and also the largest resort on the island. I think the only other resort to rival that of Berjaya's is the 5-star Japamala located on the south-western part of the island, but that's a story for another day. Berjaya has a complimentary pick-up service from the airport to the resort and uses a windowless mini bus. The brief ride is very breezy as the strange looking vehicle chugs away down the narrow village road, crossing a bridge and then up and down undulating terrain around a cliff overlooking the balmy sea.
In just under 10 minutes, we arrive at the resort's main reception to check in. After some paperwork and being handed over the keys, I am then whisked off to my chalet on what looks like a sightseeing safari truck which has rows of seats in place of a void area for transporting goods. The chalet's aren't too far from the main reception area which houses a souvenir shop, restaurants, a business centre, gaming arcades, a business center, a gym and a swimming pool, but it's just a little perk they provide to reduce the burden of you personally carrying your (heavy) luggage in the sweltering heat and humidity of the tropics.
I chose a standard chalet, being the most economical for a single traveller like me. The chalet is decently sized with two single beds, a dressing table, a built-in wardrobe, television, coffee table and still has ample room for romping around on the wooden plank floor. Outside, the chalet is tastefully planted with lush foliage that adds to that rustic ambience.
Just behind my chalet is a jungle pool fed by a creek. It's a medium-sized natural pool teeming with what appears to be barbs and cichlids. There is also the occasional water monitor - a huge water lizard that grows to approximately 1.5 metres long, that takes a dip in the cool tranquil shallows of the pool. The pool flows out to the sea via a stream. Often, one can see schools of juvenile Monos, Scats and Sweetlips making a dart from the sea to the pool and back again.
It was a very tranquil afternoon walk exploring the beach. The gentle warm rays of the golden sun bathing everything in rich yellow hues made for a picture perfect postcard with coconut trees fringing the smooth golden sand of the beach. As the sun plays hide and seek with the low-lying clouds, radiant beams appear to emanate from the cotton-ball clouds. As the sun sets silhouetting the foreground, one cannot help but feel a sense of that elusive peace and quiet not found in the hustle and bustle of city life. Dusk gives way to night, and the dark of night is lit with twinkling stars high up above.
The next day brings with it a low tide - perfect for beach-combing and exploring. The sun is high and the tide has receded, leaving miles of exposed sand sculpted with wavy patterns by the ebb and flow of tides. In certain tidal pools not left high and dry by the receding tides, the pools house an assortment of sea life. Among the coral rubble there are crabs, limpets, periwinkles, sea cucumbers and even colourful damselfish.
I found this little guy stranded on the sand and returned him back to the water, but not before taking some photos for identification purposes. This one looks like a damselfish by the name of
Dischistodus fasciatus.
As tonight will be my final night on Tioman, I decided to splurge one more time on a RM60 semi-buffet dinner where I get to choose my main meal to go with the assortment of salads and desserts on display. I chose the 'assam' fish (fish served with a mildly spicy and tangy tamarind sauce). Not too bad really! There is nothing better than seafood freshly caught from the waters surrounding the island!
The next day, I bid farewell to my favourite island beach resort. Feeling heavy hearted as I return to reality, I am left with nothing but fond memories of my brief escape to Tioman. As my air-worthy vessel roars down the runway at full speed and takes into the sky, I peer out the tiny cabin window as we begin our climb. The jetty at Kampung Tekek seems to diminish in size as we increase our altitude. We make a turn westwards and I get a final glimpse of the twin peaks of the Gunung Mukut mystically shrouded in low-lying mist at the southern tip of the island, as if beckoning me to return once more.
